Doing the Maco

By Terry Hill

By a narrow definition, Zona Maco is an annual art fair. Which is something like defining Christmas as an annual birthday party.  It doesn’t really tell the story.

It’s true that Maco’s centerpiece is the grand art fair held at the CitiBanamex Center in Mexico City. The show, which ran February 9-13, drew over 200 international exhibitors. 

ARTnews magazine calls it “arguably Latin America’s most important art fair.” A less prissy editor would have crossed out “arguably.” Because of its importance it attracts art lovers – and money – from all over the world.

My wife and I are big city people and while we totally love getting away to our more relaxed life in here San Miguel, every now and then we crave a little shot of the energy of la Gran Manzana. Mexico City and Zona Maco is our solution.

 The art world that Maco draws to the city spawns dozens of satellite events, alternate exhibitions, open studios, performances and gallery shows. They pop up everywhere, and result in what amounts to a city-wide party.

 Parties are best enjoyed with friends and we had a full complement. But as we went from one event to another we kept meeting and adding new ones. And while it would have been impossible to get to every event that’s part of this festival, we did our best. We made it to more than a dozen. 

 Beyond the interesting people, the common element in all of them was the availability of Tequila, Mezcal, wine and beer. Again, we did our best.

 Highlights would include two separate events hosted by San Miguel’s own YAM Gallery in the home-studio of the Mexican abstract artist and petanque aficionado Carlos Pez. The second of these on Maco’s final day was a bit of a celebration because the YAM booth had been named one of Zona Maco’s 10 Best (https://www.artnews.com/list/art-news/news/zona-maco-2022-best-booths-1234618683/). Our host, gallery owner Negro Caballero in his trademark baseball cap, was wreathed in smiles.

 We’ve attended Salon Acme in previous years, but it had to be experienced again. This is a large art space showing the work of dozens of primarily young artists. Housed in a beautiful old building masquerading as a ruin, this was once a residence of the Mexican dictator Porfirio Diaz we were told. (Despite not being able to confirm this by an internet search, I’m going to stick with it anyway. Because if it wasn’t, it should have been.)

 It’s a perfect party space and complements the art with six bars by my count. Music booms through the building and keeps the party and the energy level on high alert.

 But it seems a crime to mention only a few pieces of Maco when the whole thing was such a wonderful celebration of art. As one woman at an event said to me, “It’s the most fun you can have with your clothes on!”

 I’ve heard that line enough times to be skeptical, but you know, this time she might be right.