Bacalar and Chetumal, Mexico

By Saul Garpe

One of the most popular Mexican tourist destinations in recent years has been Bacalar in Quintana Roo. The famous lagoon that is said to have seven colors and crystal clear water is a huge draw for tourists. It is not the most accessible destination for those of us who live in Central Mexico, but it is well worth the trip for those willing to make the effort. To get to Bacalar from San Miguel de Allende you will have to go to Mexico City or Guadalajara and take a flight to Chetumal. This will put you less than 40 km from Bacalar. It is also possible to fly from any of the Bajío airports to Cancun and then take the much longer route through the Riviera Maya. This will take you through Cancun, Playa del Carmen, Tulum, Sian Kaan, and Akumal. It will add about 350 km to your trip.

Be sure to give yourself time to get to know Chetumal. You can walk the boardwalk and enjoy beautiful sunsets while you sample a marquesita gigante, a giant crunchy crepe filled with cajeta, and other sweet goodies. You might be surprised to find beautiful English-style wooden houses along the streets. They are part of the history of British Colonial presence in Belize and the influence it had on Chetumal. I must tell you that the food scene in Chetumal is very good. 

On the Malecón you should look for the Mar Caribe Bar and order their fabulous ceviche. Then look for Café del Puerto and order some delicious huevos motuleños, which is a traditional dish of the Yucatan peninsula. Another place you must see is the State Congress. There you can see the mega mural «Forma, Color, e Historia» by the artist Elio Carmichel. It is one of the most important tourist attractions in the city.

Once the belly is full and the heart is happy, we are ready to go to Bacalar. I recommend a stay at Rancho Escondido. It is an ecological hotel on the shore of the lagoon with fabulous views. The next day kayak in the Pirates Channel, and in the afternoon visit the Fort of San Felipe or Cenote Azul. Then enjoy the sunset at Maracuyá, a set of food stands with live music, where you will be amazed by the sunset. Do not miss Los Balnearios, a series of entrances to the Bacalar lagoon. The municipal entrance is free of charge but none of the others are really expensive. The most prominent are the Municipal Spa, the Sawmill, Los Azucareros, Ejidal Mágico, and Sac Ha.

By the way, if the border is open you can request a temporary permit to spend a couple of days in Belize. Once there, you can visit the commercial area for a few hours where you can find all kinds of electronic products and clothes at a good price. Does this sound like fun? I say let’s go!