By Rodrigo Diaz Guerrero
A few years ago, I was reading about the Mexican painter José María Obregón. There was an interesting legend about a Toltec princess named Xóchitl who was friend to deer, opossums, and rabbits. One day she saw a rabbit happily coming out of and going into a hole in a large maguey. She soon found the thick, white juice inside the plant and without hesitation decided to try it. She was pleasantly overcome by the delicious taste and the intoxicating effect of it. Xóchitl shared her discovery with her father, Papantzin, who in turn decided to show it to King Tepalcátzin, and the rest is history.
The discovery of pulque is, without doubt, a cornerstone in the identity of pre-Hispanic peoples. It is an essential element in Mesoamerican worldviews and thought of by many to be the most Mexican drink of these generous lands—an agave ferment—drink of the gods.
Inspired by this ancient nectar, Zuria Goiricelaya and Antonio Patlán have been working for more than seven years to bring about pulque culture. They have now opened La Otomí pulquería after having offered pulque experiences in magueyero ranches in the region. They have had to rethink their business model after the onslaught of COVID-19.
La Otomí has been open for about a year and a half in the San Rafael neighborhood. It is intended as a type of homage to the old pulquerías that existed in San Miguel de Allende at the beginning of the 19th century and to honor, through its name, the Otomí culture which predominated in the vicinity of the Laja River in pre-Columbian times. The space seeks to value Mexican popular art, urban art, and the new trend for the drink of the gods. They are bringing good pulque to the table, as well as mead, and show an appreciation for the tlachiqueros—those who obtain and ferment the liquor.
In La Otomí, colors are effervescent thanks to the talent of the artists who have decorated its walls. Artists have contributed their works and the collection of Mexican folk art that hangs from walls and ceilings. All of this creates a delightful and festive atmosphere and is the perfect environment in which to sample this special drink.
The menu changes frequently but is always focused on Mexican gastronomy. The food is a perfect match for a jar of natural pulque or with a cured pulque—that which has added seasonal fruit, or seeds, and is drunk very cold. “We decided to open La Otomí in the San Rafael neighborhood to decentralize tourism. The acceptance is wonderful, although it was always designed for local people because of low prices. The truth is we have received people from all over the world who want to learn about San Miguel and its traditional pulque. The place is committed to culture and serves as a home for artists, local people, and tourists who visit and want to try this delicious and ancestral drink,” said Zuria.
On some afternoons and evenings there is live music at La Otomí. It could be Son Jarocho, cumbias, jazz, rock, Rap, hip-hop, or other styles. It makes La Otomi an amalgam of diverse cultures that attracts people from different latitudes.
To learn about their upcoming events, follow them on the social media: IG @pulquerialaotomi and on Facebook as Pulquería la Otomí SMA. Pulquería La Otomí is located on Antonio Villanueva 10A at the Vicente Guerrero corner, in the San Rafael neighborhood, with hours from Monday to Saturday, 4pm to 12am.
