By Francisco Peyret
In recent years, the state of Guanajuato has been emerging on the national and international wine scene, with surprising success. Producers from this region of the country are now winning awards and gaining worldwide recognition. However, the history of Guanajuato wine is still relatively unknown. For many decades, the references to traditional and high-quality wine in Mexico were mainly associated with Baja California and Coahuila.
The history of wine in Guanajuato dates back to the colonial era when Spanish missionaries introduced the first grapevines to the region in the 16th century. Vineyards were mainly established in the city of Guanajuato and its surrounding areas. However, due to the climatic conditions and lack of viticulture experience, wine production during that time was not very successful.
It is said that Cura Hidalgo, a lover of wine, used to make his wine in Dolores Hidalgo. It is rumored that Miguel Hidalgo taught vine cultivation to his parishioners in San Felipe (1783). Although there aren’t many specific details about his involvement in viticulture, historians assert that he cultivated grapes in his garden and produced wine for personal consumption and that of his community. Unfortunately, during the fight for independence, Hidalgo’s vineyards were burned down by the army.
In the late 19th century, wine production in Guanajuato began to flourish. The first wine cellar in Guanajuato, known as Bodega de Marfil, was founded in 1857. Some authors claim that this cellar laid the foundation for the wine industry development in the region. From this initial bodega, more wineries were established in different parts of Guanajuato, such as San Miguel de Allende, Dolores Hidalgo, and the Celaya area. However, historian Rodolfo Gershman considers Bodega San Luis Rey (1870), located in San Luis de la Paz, as the most significant reference in the history of wine production in the state of Guanajuato during that time.
However, toward the end of the 19th century, phylloxera, a pest that affects vine roots, devastated the vineyards of Guanajuato and other parts of Mexico. This resulted in a significant decline in the wine industry in the region. For several decades, wine production in Guanajuato diminished, and many wineries closed.
In the 20th century (1960-80), there was a resurgence of Guanajuato’s wine industry. New wineries were established, and modern viticulture and enology techniques were introduced. Unfortunately, during the 1970s and early 1980s, brandy producers dominated the national market, and a significant portion of grape producers in the state, either by obligation or opportunity, sold their harvests to brandy producers (mainly located in Aguascalientes) during that time.
By the late 1980s, rum decisively displaced brandy in the preferences of Mexicans. This led to a decline in the brandy market, resulting in reduced demand for grapes. As a result, grape producers in Guanajuato sought to reconvert their productions. For about 30 years, farmers in the region found good opportunities in the export market, such as strawberries, tomatoes, peppers, broccoli, chilies, and squash, among others.
Separately, quoting historian Rodolfo Gershman, «With the arrival of Catalan Juan José Manchón Arcas to Dolores Hidalgo in 1975, a new era began. Born in Vilanova, in Penedès, he previously worked at the Codorniu winery in Sant Sadurní D’Anoia and also in Chile. In Mexico, he expanded his knowledge at a hacienda in Zacatecas before arriving in Dolores Hidalgo, where he started making homemade wine in 1978 with his friend Ignacio Vega, owner of the neighboring hacienda.»
At the end of the 1980s, the first vineyards were planted (about 10 hectares) at Vega’s hacienda. Ignacio’s son Ricardo partnered with Juan José’s son Juan Menchón, who followed in his father’s footsteps by completing a doctorate in enology in Valencia. It was through this partnership that these families decided to continue growing grapes to produce high-quality wine. From this collaboration, Cuna de Tierra emerged in the early 2000s in Dolores Hidalgo, becoming the first winery project in the state that gained a foothold in the national market with quality products, ushering in a new era for the wine sector in Guanajuato.
Meanwhile, in San Miguel de Allende in 2000, a pair of Italians, Ettore Apollonio and Remo Stabile, began producing wine on approximately 50 hectares of land. For many, the success of these projects revitalized viticulture in Guanajuato and inspired other entrepreneurs to follow suit. In recent years, the wine sector in Guanajuato has undergone a profound transformation at a rapid pace. To give you an idea, Guanajuato now has 450 hectares of vineyards, approximately 30 wineries have their wines in the market, and at least another 20 have begun planting with the same objective.
Furthermore, with the emergence of projects like Cuna de Tierra and leveraging the enthusiasm of entrepreneurs, the state government established the Wine Route of Guanajuato, or the Independence Valley, as a tourist product. This route offers the proximity of two World Heritage Cities (San Miguel and Guanajuato) and at least two Magical Towns (Dolores Hidalgo and Comonfort). With multiple options to enjoy, including wineries, accommodations, gastronomy, wellness activities, cultural experiences, and event venues, the route allows travelers to integrate diverse experiences into their journey. Given the history, complexity, and sophistication of the wine sector, we must acknowledge that Guanajuato’s resurgence in this field has been truly impressive.
This summer marks the beginning of the harvest season with the 5th Wine Harvest Festival at the Guanajuato Wine Museum on July 15 in Dolores Hidalgo. Each harvest has its personality, as every vineyard is different, ranging from those with underground cellars to those with contemporary award-winning facilities and those embracing a more rustic and organic ambiance. All of this accompanies the best wines that the land of Guanajuato has to offer.
