By Rodrigo Díaz
As a kind of tavern that also offered homemade dishes, the concept of a brasserie originated in Munich, Germany, and later became popular in Paris after the Franco-Prussian War of 1870. Today, although the term in French refers to the place where beer is made and sold, the concept is more often used to refer to small bistro-type places where the owner generally serves his clientele but with a broader menu and more professional operation.
This is the concept that feeds the spirit of Salvajes Brasserie—a cozy place in the heart of the city with just under three months of operation. It is inside a classic house with an intimate interior, a comfortable terrace, and a small bar in front of the kitchen—a server’s favorite place. Chef Jorge Avendaño, who is in charge of the magic, tells us that the name of the place is inspired by the famous Oliver Stone movie, and he defines the project as a traditional French restaurant, with classic recipes and a good selection of wines and beers. Music is also an important part of the personality of the place.
In Salvajes you can listen to a good jazz standard, a dark and powerful blues, or a classic from the 1940s while you drink the “Salvajes” aperitif (Lillet Blanc, violet liqueur, and tonic water), a glass of Bordeaux, or a shot of mezcal. For the discerning appetite, chef Avendaño recommends the beef pie with mustard and dill vinegar; French toast with lobster in butter and anchovy and paprika remoulade; and the coq au vin, the classic chicken stew with vegetables, red wine reduction, and beef jus—which the reader may be salivating about right now.
At the helm of Salvajes Brasserie are Aída García, Alejandra Cortina, and chef Avendaño, who have managed to create a place with a very particular spirit where the senses are seduced with a distinctive atmosphere and a pure hedonism of food, drinks, and music. Salvajes Brasserie is located at 92 Hidalgo, in Centro, with hours from Tuesday to Saturday from 2 to 10pm, and on Sundays from 2 to 6pm.
